Church of St. Rock with Calvary in Šmarje pri Jelšah

There are four pilgrimage routes through Slovenia. The Emma’s pilgrimage route, St. Martin route, The way of St. James and Mary’s pilgrimage route. On the latter is the baroque Calvary which winds form the town Šmarje pri Jelšah to the Church of St. Roch and is the most picturesque on Slovenian soil.

Legend has it that in 1645 a plague broke out in in the nearby town of Ptuj, from where it was brought to Šmarje by two locals. In a short time it killed more than two hounded people. To ward off this plague, they built a chapel on the hill above Šmarje. God answered the fervent prayers of repentance offered up by St. Roch (Sv.Rok) and St. Sebastjan (Sv. Boštjan) and at the intercession of the Mother of God the plague was driven out of the land. Legend has it that at that time the faithful donated so much that they built a magical beautiful church on the site of a previously insignificant chapel and dedicated it to St. Roch as the protector and intercessor against the plague.

The exterior of the church is simple, with gothic pointed windows and decorations. The interior, however, is so stunningly beautiful that you are left speechless.

The church is richly decorated with frescoes, shell and mesh stucco, angel heads and flower twigs. The richly decorated pulpit also attracts attention, as its balcony rests on pillar and is most reminiscent of a slender glass or chalice.

Since the church is dedicated to St. Roch, the central statue in the altar is St. Roch and the frescoes in the presbytery tell the story of the Saint.

The Calvary

Passion paths, such as Calvary in Šmarje began to emerge during the Counter Reformation and Catholic Restoration and in the 18th century they were extremely popular, attracting many more people than pilgrimage sites with longer tradition.

The Calvary was built gradually between 1743 and 1753. It was constructed by the priest, mathematician and watchmaker dr. Matej Vrečar on the model of Calvary in Gratz.

From the foot of the hill, a cobbled path winds past fifteen chapels. All the chapels are richly decorated, some have masterfully carved portals, baroque foreheads, roof towers and altars with the right of mass, while the smaller chapels are more modestly designed. The chapels are equipped with sculptural groups, which together with the painted scenes and the stucco background very dramatically and naturalistically represent the individual scene. This made it easier for believers to relive the suffering of Jesus.

The last chapel consist of  the imitation of the Scala Sancta. The Holy Stairs were 28 steps leading up to the praetorium of Pontius Pilates on which Jesus stepped on his way to trial during his Passion. Šmarje’s Holy Stairs are the oldest in Slovenia. The interior of the chapel is richly stuccoed and painted, however it is not well preserved. Pilgrims climb the stairs on their knees to get to the Tomb of God which is on the top of the stairs.

At the top of the Calvary, on a nice day, there is a fantastic view of a large part of Slovenia. One can see 53 churches. Yet another example of this beautiful country.

In Slovenia there are 2901 churches and chapels, many of which are set in spectacular and picturesque location.

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